Beer Travels Day 4

Day 4 – Cologne & Kölsch 🍻

“A long train ride, a surprise reroute, and a whirlwind evening of Kölsch in Cologne — Day 4 was one for the books.”

We set out on a long train journey (4.5 hours each way) across Germany, watching the countryside roll by in green waves of fields, villages, and church steeples. One highlight from the rails was passing through Ulm, where we caught a glimpse of the Ulm Minster — the tallest cathedral in the world at 161.5 meters. It's story is incredible, taking centuries to complete and surviving both wars and natural disasters.

Onboard, we cracked open a Starnberger Hell — smooth, crisp, and refreshing — the perfect travel companion.

But the ride soon turned into an adventure. First, our train was rerouted due to rail problems, then suddenly canceled. Just as we were pulling into Koblenz, an unexpected announcement came over the PA. We were now magically headed to Cologne after all! Luckily, we got to see the castle district of the Rhine river on our detour. It was epic!

We arrived in Cologne (Köln) with just enough time to stash our backpacks in a luggage storage facility — since bags aren’t allowed inside the cathedral — and dashed off for our first taste of the city’s signature beer: a quick Kölsch at Gaffel am Dom. It was refrshing and everything I thought a Kolsch should be. Dry, slightly hoppy and a mild fruity ester from the yeast but very restrained and worked well.

Our guided tour of the Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom) was breathtaking. The Gothic masterpiece is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and stepping inside to see its soaring arches, stained glass, and relics was unforgettable. The scale of the place was hard to fathom.

Afterward, we explored Cologne’s beer culture in true local style. We found a tucked-away spot pouring Früh Kölsch, then followed a recommendation from a friendly local to a small dive for Reissdorf Kölsch. Each one was subtly different, but all crisp, light, and endlessly drinkable — the essence of Kölsch.

We closed the evening back at Gaffel, this time trying their slightly different unfiltered Weisse. It wasn’t classic Kölsch, but it was an interesting twist. We also tried currywurst with fries for a quick snack. It was good but a bit sweet.

Heading back to the station, we discovered our return train to Munich was first delayed, then canceled altogether. In the end, we had to buy a new ticket — a chaotic end to a whirlwind Cologne day.

Despite the travel hiccups, sipping Kölsch in its hometown and standing beneath the soaring towers of the cathedral made Day 4 unforgettable.

📍 Map of Day 4 Stops - Map Here

• Ulm Minster

• Cologne Cathedral

• Gaffel am Dom

• Früh am Dom

• Reissdorf Brewery / Kölsch stops

🍺 Beer Highlights – Day 4

• Starnberger Hell – smooth, crisp lager enjoyed on the train

• Gaffel Kölsch – light, slightly hoppy, classic Cologne experience, Best of the day

• Früh Kölsch – easy-drinking, refreshing, slightly softer flavor

• Reissdorf Kölsch – a touch more bitterness, very drinkable

• Gaffel Unfiltered Weisse – cloudy and different, not a true Kölsch but interesting to try

🍺 Best Beer Of Day 4 - Gaffel Kölsch 

• This superb beer, Cologne‘s finest, is pure, clear and light. It is delightfully refreshing, made from specially selected hops and barely making it most agreeable and supremely drinkable. By maintaining the oldest brewing method, we ensure the distinct fragrance and aromatic flavor which distinguishes ‚Kölsch‘ from other beers, and which has made it popular among beer connoisseurs.

• ​Since 1908 the family-owned Gaffel private brewery has been brewing the variety of ‘Kölsch’ most popular in restaurants all along the Rhine River. Its flagship pub, the ‘Gaffel am Dom’ is located in the heart of Cologne, just a few steps from its magnificient Cathedral and attracts countless locals and tourists every day.

• Kölsch is a style of beer that’s unique to Cologne. In the traditional beer taverns there, the waiter who brings it to your table is known as a „Köbes.” He addresses his guests in a humorous but also rather grouchy fashion.

  
  

  Hash marks on the cardboard coaster under your glass keep track of how many Kölsch

  you’re served.

  
  

  Kölsch is a social institution! No local ever picks up a Kölsch at the bar without bringing along one for each of his friends. And it goes without saying that he’s picking up the tab for the round. Larger rounds are carried in a „Kölschkranz” – a convenient ring shaped tray held by a central handle.