Quick, easy, and inexpensive homebrewing!

I've been thinking about how to get more people interested in homebrewing and was talking to some friends and co-workers about it. Some of these folks homebrewed in the past and gave it up, and others have never given it a try. When I asked about the reasons why, I kept hearing many of the same things:

The equipment is too expensive

I don't have room for all of the stuff

Bottling the beer is a pain and it often ends up getting oxidized

I don't have the time

Why would I want to brew my own when there is so much great beer readily available these days?

It then occurred to me that I had all of these same concerns before I started homebrewing. It also occurred to me that for years I have been brewing with a method and equipment that overcomes all of these challenges...yet I have never posted a detailed review. Well, it is time to change that.

Equipment and cost - While you certainly can buy an all-in-one system, and there are lots of them available these days, you don't have to. These systems are more affordable than ever, but can easily range from several hundred to well over a thousand dollars. What I did instead was to purchase a reusable mesh brew bag for around $20 and found a rarely used 20 quart stainless steel stockpot in the garage (if you had to buy one, it would only set you back around $20 - 30). I ordered a 2.5 gallon ball lock keg for around $75, a hop spider for $25, a floating dip tube for about $15, and a large anti-splash funnel for $15. Add a few bucks for some tubing, ball lock connectors, and a picnic tap and that's all you need to get started! All of this for less than $250! (...I didn't include the cost of a CO2 cylinder and regulator which you will also need since I am focusing here on the cost of my cobbled together "brew system" vs a commercially available all in one system - you will need to add the CO2 cylinder and regulator in both cases and this will set you back another couple hundred bucks).

Process: I start by adding my brew water to the kettle, then add the brew bag. I then heat the water on the stovetop to my desired mash temperature. I next add my grains and mix them in using a long spatula or spoon that you are sure to have lying around the kitchen already (its ok at this point to leave the burner on since the temp will cool when you add the grains). Once the temp is back up to where you want it, turn the burner off and wrap something like a towel or blanket around the kettle to insulate it (BE CAREFUL if you have burners that remain hot after you turn them off - I use induction and it cools very rapidly). Let your mash rest for the desired time - if you are in a rush, then 30 - 45 minutes is sufficient (in fact, I almost never go beyond 45 min).

Once your mash is done, remove the blanket, pull the bag out and let it drain into the kettle. Don't worry about getting all the liquid - I next place the bag in a large colander with a bowl under it to collect the remaining wort that can then be poured back into the kettle. Turn the heat back on high to bring the wort to a boil. Attach the hop spider and add hops according to your recipe schedule. Always short on time, I rarely go more than 30 min for the boil.

Once the boil is done, turn off the heat, put the lid on the kettle, and then put the kettle into an ice bath to cool it (I use a utility sink, but you could also use a large cooler). Once the wort has cooled sufficiently, pour it into the keg using the funnel, leaving as much of the trub in the kettle, but don't get too stressed if some of it gets into the keg. Place the keg in a mini-fridge set to your desired fermentation temperature and let it sit overnight.

Next day, add the yeast, seal it up, and attach a blow off tube to the gas line. Submerge the tubing into a gallon jug filled partway with Star-San. Let it ferment for a week or two (depends on the style, yeast and temp), then cold crash (turn temp on mini-fridge down to as low as it will go - mine goes down to around 38F) and let it sit for a few days or longer. This will cause all of the yeast and other particulates to settle allowing you to serve clear beer from the top down from your floating dip tube. Why not transfer the beer to a second keg? - that would add extra time, money (for the keg and CO2), effort, and run the risk of oxidation if you don't do it right! But if you want to do so, then knock yourself out!

Additions and Enhancements: While the above is all you need to get started, I have added a few things over time. While pricey at around $135, I find the Tilt Floating Hydrometer to be very useful for monitoring temperature and how my fermentation is progressing. I have not found it to be super accurate, but it is useful to see when your fermentation has finished without having to draw any beer out of the keg. I've also added a refractometer to check on things and a fancier tap handle, but you can get by just fine without them. My method is also limited to about 2.5 gal batches which is fine by me since I then get to brew more often and try new styles. If you want to go higher, you will likely want to go with a commercial system.

In response to the question about why bother when there is so much good beer already out there, I say that nothing compares to the satisfaction of brewing it yourself! That and the creativity associated with experimenting with new recipes and ingredients.

Hope this will generate some additional interest in the hobby! Long live homebrew!